DOWNTOWN. Evoking classic steakhouses of yore, Al's offers dark wood decor, a tuxedo-clad waitstaff, the wafting fragrance of cigar smoke, a nautical-themed bar, and tableside preparations. There are no printed menus; waiters recite dinner options, and the kitchen practically invites special requests. Beef, duck, veal, lamb, lobster, fish, chicken, and pasta are prepared in a seemingly endless list of variations. Try a crab-stuffed filet or lamb Ettinger for something unusual. For a sweet ending, it's hard to go wrong with luscious bananas Foster.

DOWNTOWN. Soft lights and gentle background music effect a pleasingly refined atmosphere at this steakhouse. Diners are both hotel guests and St. Louisians, a telling indicator of the cuisine's quality. Unexpected appetizers please the palate, and potato skins topped with provolone, prosciutto, and scallions; frog legs in garlic butter; and colossal toasted ravioli are practically meals in themselves. Filet mignon, New York strip, porterhouse, and rib-eye steaks form the core of the menu, while seafood, chicken, and lamb play supporting roles. Entrees arrive with a choice of potato and a house salad; lobster tail can be easily added.

DOWNTOWN. Owned and operated by former NFL greats Dan Dierdorf and Jim Hart of the old St. Louis Cardinals football team, this classic restaurant features elegant yet casual surroundings and recalls New York-style steak houses from the early decades of the century. Start with escargot in garlic butter or oysters on the half-shell. For a main course, choose your favorite cut of steak or seafood, or select lamb, pork, or veal chops from a silver tray and enjoy the cooked-to-perfection meal.

DOWNTOWN. This popular steak house is a favorite spot after ball games and for family dinners and business occasions. The menu is typically American and features chicken noodle soup, savory spinach salad, escargot, flavorful bruschetta, steamed salmon, and plenty of steaks. The Missouri Beef Council has named Mike Shannon's the top beef restaurant in the St. Louis metropolitan area. Shannon, of course, gained fame as a Cardinals baseball player and as a sports broadcaster.

CENTRAL WEST END. Classy surroundings and appropriately dapper waitstaff set the tone at this dining room, a favorite for business affairs or a special evening out. Sample marinated herring, rich in sour cream and white wine, as an appetizer. Pepperloin à la Tenderloin, a restaurant specialty, is seasoned, marinated, char-broiled, and dressed in the house sauce. Tilapia and Dover sole are choices on the small but solid seafood menu. The Tenderloin Room's location means that shopping and a movie are literally around the corner.