CENTRAL WEST END. Tables draped in crisp white linen fill this high-ceilinged bistro, which looks as if it's been transported from the streets of Paris directly to the Central West End. Large portions of French classics employ cream and butter unsparingly ­ dieters beware. Lump crab with avocado, tomato, and basil salad is a filling starter; try to save room for <i>plats principaux</i>, including roast free-range chicken with truffle sauce, braised sauerkraut with smoked pork chop and sausage, and sauteed veal in white wine and mushrooms. Three entrees can be sampled for $35 ­ a steal.

Tue-Thu 5:30pm-10pm; Fri-Sat 5:30pm-11pm; Sun 5pm-9pm

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